The Lukla flight is like a theme park ride – short, bumpy, and unforgettable. Everyone claps when the plane lands safely on that tiny strip carved into the mountain. From there, you finally hit the trail. It’s not too tough today: stone paths, prayer wheels spinning, and yaks already blocking your way. Tip: keep to the wall side when they pass, they’re heavier than you think. After a few hours along the river, you reach Phakding – a riverside village where the lodges are cozy and the tea is bottomless. 

This one tests your lungs. The suspension bridges alone are an adventure – hundreds of feet above the river, fluttering with prayer flags. By the time you climb that last switchback into Namche, you’ll be sweaty, breathless, and maybe cursing under your breath. But then… Everest peeks through the trees. That first glimpse gives you goosebumps. Namche itself feels almost like a mountain capital – cafes, bakeries, even an Irish pub at 3,400m.

“Rest day” isn’t really resting. You hike higher to adapt. We walked up to the Everest View Hotel, had tea while staring at Ama Dablam (which honestly steals the show more than Everest some days), then dropped into Khumjung village. Hillary’s school is here, plus a quiet monastery. Afternoon is usually bakery time in Namche. My tip: apple pie tastes even better when your lungs are burning from altitude. 

The trail rolls along with Ama Dablam perfectly framed – you’ll take too many photos here. After crossing the river, the climb feels endless, but Tengboche monastery waiting at the top makes it worth it. If you’re lucky, you’ll hear monks chanting as incense drifts through the cold air, with Everest glowing behind them. One of those spine-tingling moments. Bring an extra layer – nights here bite. 

Forests fade, villages grow smaller, and the landscape opens up into wide valleys. You pass Pangboche with its ancient monastery, then it’s potato fields and stone walls all the way to Dingboche. The air is thinner now – you feel it just walking to the toilet. Nights are cold, but the sky is insane – Milky Way stretching from ridge to ridge. 

Another climb-high sleep-low day. We hiked up Nagarjun Hill, steep and slow, but the views – Makalu in the distance, Island Peak looking sharp – are unreal. Afternoon is all about hot ginger lemon tea in the lodge, swapping stories with other trekkers, or just watching clouds roll off Ama Dablam. This is the day you start to feel part of the mountains, not just a visitor. 

The path climbs gently to Thukla, where you eat noodles in a smoky teahouse before tackling the steep hill to the memorials. Dozens of stone cairns stand here for climbers who never came back – quiet, emotional, and humbling. After that, the trail follows the Khumbu Glacier, crunching over moraine until you reach Lobuche. The lodges here are basic, the nights freezing, but the stars keep you company.

This is the day everyone dreams of. You trek to Gorakshep (dusty little place at 5,100m), have a quick meal, then push on to Base Camp. The walk is rough, over rocks and ice, but soon the yellow expedition tents appear. You can’t see the Everest summit from here – Nuptse blocks it – but standing on the Khumbu Glacier where history is made? It’s powerful. The return to Gorakshep feels twice as long, but the grin on your face won’t fade. 

You wake in the dark, crunching up the steep trail to Kala Patthar with headlamps. It’s brutal, but when the first sun hits Everest in gold and pink, you forget the pain. Some people cry, some just stare. After breakfast, you head down and trek toward Dzongla – a quieter spot surrounded by jagged peaks. It feels like you’ve stepped deeper into the wild. 

This day is a beast. Up rocky slopes, across an icy glacier, wind howling at the top. The pass is strung with prayer flags, snapping in the cold air. Descending is trickier than climbing – slippery rocks, tired legs – but you push through. By the time you stumble into Thangnak, tea never tasted so good. My tip: carry a chocolate bar or two – you’ll thank yourself. 

Crossing the Ngozumpa Glacier feels like walking on another planet –rubble, ice ridges, and silence. Then suddenly, turquoise water glows ahead – Gokyo Lake. The village sits right on its shore, with Cho Oyu towering behind. It’s breathtaking, maybe even more than Everest Base Camp. 

Another early climb, but the reward is massive: 360° views of Everest, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and the endless glacier below. Some say this is the best viewpoint in the Khumbu, and I agree. Later, you can wander to the Fifth Lake – quiet, eerie, untouched. Or just sit by the water and watch yaks graze. It’s a rare kind of peace. 

Today you drop altitude, which feels amazing. Breathing gets easier, steps feel lighter. The trail runs past Machhermo, waterfalls splashing down cliffs, and finally into Dole. After so long up high, the greenery feels like a gift. 

Forests return, birds sing, and before long, Namche appears again. This time, it feels like a bustling city after weeks in stone villages. Most trekkers celebrate with cappuccino, pizza, or just endless bakery runs. Hot shower? Absolute heaven. 

The last long push. Bridges, villages, prayer flags – all the familiar sights. But now you notice details you missed on the way up. At Lukla, the mood is festive. Guides, porters, trekkers – everyone relaxes, sometimes with raksi (local spirit). It’s a proper mountain farewell. 

And just like that, the plane takes you out of the mountains and back into Kathmandu’s dusty, vibrant chaos. You’ll miss the quiet already. Many people celebrate with a proper Nepali meal, or a massage to soothe sore legs. The city feels overwhelming, but also warm – it’s grown on you.

Time to say goodbye. You pack up, head for the airport, and carry with you not just photos but little sounds and smells: yak bells, juniper smoke, boots crunching on ice. This trek stays in your bones long after you leave.