A short flight today to Nepalgunj. It’s flat, hot, and totally different from Kathmandu. Checked in at the hotel and spent the day resting, preparing for the high-altitude flight to Juphal tomorrow. The city feels busy, but quiet compared to what’s coming.

Early morning flight to Juphal—tiny airstrip, tiny planes, huge adventure feeling. From there, we started trekking to Dunai. The valley is wide and quiet, with rivers sparkling in the morning sun. Crossed a few small streams, passed traditional villages, and breathed in that first taste of Dolpo’s remote mountain air. Dunai felt peaceful, a perfect first night in the highlands. 

The trail starts climbing today. Terraced fields, small forests, and villages dotted along the way. People wave and say hello, always smiling—it’s impossible not to smile back. Chhepka is quiet and serene, mountains rising all around. Stayed in a small lodge, feeling more and more like I was leaving the world behind. 

 Steady climb through open valleys and alpine forests. The higher we went, the more the snow-capped peaks started to peek through the clouds. Jharana Hotel is small and simple, but wow—the view makes you forget everything else. Sat outside just staring at the mountains for what felt like forever. 

Finally, Phoksundo Lake! Turquoise waters framed by cliffs and peaks—almost unbelievable. Ringmo village sits on the lakeshore, small and quiet. Took a walk along the water, felt the wind and the silence, and thought, “Yep, this is why I came here.” Overnight at a lodge by the lake, under a sky full of stars. 

A slow, relaxed day. Walked around Ringmo, visited Bon monasteries, explored small trails along the lake, and hiked to nearby viewpoints. The waterfalls and cliffs around the lake are stunning. Met a few locals, learned about their culture—it’s amazing how life continues here so far from everything else. 

 Started heading back, descending through forests, villages, and alpine meadows. The lake fades behind, but every reflection of the mountains in the streams and ponds feels like a postcard. Chhepka again, same lodge, same mountains, but somehow it feels different on the way back. 

Long day of trekking. Retracing the trail, but noticing new things—the way light hits the mountains, children running to greet trekkers, the smell of the forests. Arrived at Juphal exhausted but happy, the little airstrip village feels like a tiny hub of adventure. 

Early morning flight to Nepalgunj, then Kathmandu. Watching the mountains shrink below the plane, it hits you how remote this place really is. Back in the city, hotel transfer, rest, maybe a little wandering for a last taste of Kathmandu before leaving. 

Breakfast, then airport transfer. Leaving with a heart full of memories: Phoksundo Lake, the remote villages, the Bon culture, the mountains that feel alive. Upper Dolpo is one of those places you don’t just see—you feel it.