A short flight today to Nepalgunj, the gateway to Upper Dolpo. The flat Terai region looks so different from the mountains I’m used to. Arrived, checked in at the hotel, and spent the evening preparing for the high-altitude flights to Juphal. 

Early morning flight to Juphal—tiny airstrip, remote as it gets. From there, a gentle trek along the Bhangeri Khola River to Dunai. The valley feels wide and open, villages dotted along the way, rivers sparkling in the sun. Dunai is quiet and peaceful, a nice little village to settle into for the first night in Upper Dolpo. 

Up we go. The trail winds through terraced fields, small villages, and patches of forest. Hills rise around us, and distant peaks start to peek through the clouds. Chhepka is tiny and calm, the kind of village that feels frozen in time. Lodge is basic, but the view makes up for it. 

The climb continues through alpine meadows and highland valleys. Small streams, isolated settlements, prayer flags fluttering—Upper Dolpo is starting to feel remote now. Jharana Hotel offers sweeping mountain views. Sat outside for a while just staring at the peaks—it’s hard to believe this is real.

Finally, Phoksundo Lake! Turquoise waters framed by cliffs and peaks—it’s unreal. Ringmo village is charming, and exploring the area a bit before dinner feels magical. High-altitude trekking really starts to hit now, but the lake makes every step worth it.

A slower day. Wandered around Ringmo village, visited Bon monasteries, and hiked to nearby viewpoints. The lake is calm, reflecting the mountains like a mirror. Met a few locals and learned about their traditions—it’s fascinating how life continues here so far from everything. 

Up through rugged alpine pastures. Highland villages, prayer flags, wide-open valleys. Sallaghari is peaceful, perched with panoramic views of surrounding peaks. The air is thin, but the scenery is enough to keep you going. 

Climbing higher, breathing slower, but the views… wow. Glaciers, snow-capped peaks, endless valleys. High camp at Nangdala is simple, cold, but the sunset over the mountains makes it magical. 

Big day! Kang La Pass is tough—windy, rocky, and thin air—but the panorama makes you forget the struggle. Descend to Shey Gompa, the Crystal Monastery, soaking in the spiritual vibe. Monks and prayer flags everywhere—it feels like another world. 

Slow day, wandering the monastery grounds, chatting with monks, hiking to viewpoints. The mountains seem to go on forever. It’s peaceful, humbling, and the perfect place to rest before more high passes. 

Crossed Saldang La today. Wind biting, clouds swirling, but the glaciers and alpine valleys make every step memorable. Descended gently to Namgung, where the lodge was a cozy reprieve after the long pass. 

Descending further, through alpine meadows and tiny villages. Saldang feels like a snapshot of Tibetan-influenced life—stone houses, small monasteries, children playing in the yard. Overnight at a local lodge. 

Up again, rugged terrain and alpine valleys. Yangze Gompa is remote, perched with glacial streams and high peaks all around. A spiritual and scenic highlight of the trek. 

Rocky ridges, meadows, and streams on the way to Sibu. Village feels lived-in but remote. Panoramic mountain views everywhere, and the Tibetan culture is alive in daily life here.

Ascending gradually to base camp. The trails are rocky, the air thin, but the valleys and pastures are beautiful. Camp feels isolated, but that’s the magic of Upper Dolpo. 

Highest pass of the trek! Glaciers, mountains, and valleys stretch endlessly. Descent to Tokyo Gaon is a relief, and the village feels like a reward—quiet, serene, tucked into the highlands. 

Down through alpine meadows, streams, and small settlements. Dho Tarap is culturally rich, with Bon monasteries and traditional Tibetan life. Lodge stay, peaceful evening. 

A day to wander. Monasteries, local houses, interactions with villagers. Upper Dolpo life is fascinating—so remote, yet so alive. Evening spent sipping tea and watching mountains fade into sunset. 

Descending again through valleys, past streams and prayer flags. Nawarpani is quiet, with sweeping mountain views. Lodge was simple but cozy. 

 Forests, terraced fields, and rivers on the way to Tarakot. The trail feels easier now, but still beautiful. Lodge stay. 

Back down through forests and farmland. Dunai feels welcoming after long days in the highlands—a riverside village to rest and reflect on the journey. 

Short trek to Juphal airstrip. Last stop before flying out. The mountains behind you feel like old friends now. 

Early morning flight back. Nepalgunj is flat and warm after the high-altitude chill. Connecting flight to Kathmandu, then hotel transfer. Evening free to rest and soak in the city one last time.

Breakfast and airport transfer. Leaving with a head full of memories: high passes, turquoise lakes, Bon monasteries, Tibetan culture, and mountains that feel alive. Upper Dolpo leaves a mark you never forget.